Sumo in Osaka
City : Osaka
Each spring Osaka plays host to one of six annual Grand Sumo Tournaments (known as Basho). This year (2010) the competition runs from March 14 to 28, and bouts are held daily. The venue is the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium.
Sumo wrestling is an ancient Japanese sport where two wrestlers attempt to push each other out of a ring. Bouts are usually over very quickly, but are preceded by tension heightening displays, as the wrestlers attempt to out psyche each other.
It is a sport with a strict hierarchical order. At he top are the Yokazuna, followed by the Ozeki, Sekiwake and Komusubi ranks. Below them are the so called "rank and filers" of the Maegashira. Before each tournament new rankings are released. These are based on the most recent tournaments. Yokazuna wrestlers are expected to retire when they can no longer compete at the top.
In early spring, the sumo clans move to Osaka and wrestlers can be spotted in the streets. They are big and burly, usually draped in kimono, and wear top knots in their hair. During the fortnight of the tournament they arrive at the stadium throughout the afternoon; surrounded by their entourage they often walk to the entrance, whilst fans cheer.
The wrestlers in the makuuchi (top) division compete for the Emperor's Cup. Over the 15 days each wrestler fights 15 opponents, one per day. The first goal of a wrestler is to emerge with a winning 8-7 record, thus guaranteeing safety from demotion. The number of wins determines the champion of the tournament. As a result, the more exciting matches tend to take place in the latter days of the tournament.
These days, an increasing number of foreign wrestlers are having success. Indeed, the entire division is headed by a Mongolian, the mighty Asashoryu (朝青龍)and Hakuho (白鵬).
Lower ranked matches begin in the morning when there are few spectators. The arena doesn't really begin to fill until just before the main division bouts start (4:30). The action usually comes to an end around 6:00, with the final bouts involving the highest ranked wrestlers.
As the scoreboard is displayed in Japanese only, recognizing the match ups may prove tricky. It is advantageous to go with someone who can read kanji (the Japanese script).
Tickets vary in price. See http://ent-sumo.pia.jp/en/index.html for details. The expensive seats, which include meals and souvenirs often sell out quickly. The arena seating is situated further from the action and is cheaper. We recommend you try for seats at the long-ways end of the gym, as they are closer to the ring. Arena seating is usually available on the day, but don't count on it (especially for the last few days).
Tickets can be purchased from the venue, or at convenience stores around Japan (again, assistance from someone kanji-literate is a major plus!).
Sumo is a sport rich in tradition and ceremony, and is highly ritualized. The more background you have, the more you will get out of your day. To brush up on your knowledge, take a look at http://sumo.goo.ne.jp/eng/
Location :
Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium is a 5 minute walk from Subway Namba station (exit number 5).
Map
Wrestlers practice in the morning at each clan's camp and some clans allow spectators. It mostly takes place from 7 to 9 am during the competition and 7 to 11 for a week before the competition. Camps are usually set in temples or shrines in Osaka. Among them, Isenoumi Beya clan's camp is located near JR Fukushima station.
View Isenoumi Beya clan's camp in a larger map